a Warner family adventure

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Day 56. 10.22.19. Badlands National Park. Minuteman Missile Silo. Wall. South Dakota

Badlands National Park. 9th National Park.

Badlands geology in short…2 words… Deposition & Erosion.

This hills of the badlands are sedimentary rock. Layers of sand, silt, clay, and volcanic ash from the west have been deposited over the last 75 million years, dating back to the dinosaurs. It is easy to look at the hills and see the layers of sediment that have been deposited over time. In fact this national park is easy to see the Law of Superposition which can be easily described as the oldest rock is on the bottom and the youngest rock is on top.

As the layers of sediment and minerals harden over time, they are subject to erosion. About 500,000 years ago erosion took over as the main geologic process. Erosion from wind and water. In fact the badlands are eroding at a rate of about 1” a year and the badlands may no longer be present in another 500,000 years.

Pretty sure Edwin’s spirit animal is the Bison.

this skeleton head was so heavy, easily 70lbs

The horns from the bighorn sheep are huge. Can you guess how much one would weigh?

The one Vera is holding is 22lbs. They can get up to 30lbs. Their horns weigh more than all their bones together. Imagine wearing 40-60lbs of horns on your head. If you ever wear a motorcycle helmet, your neck can get sore from 2lbs on your head by the end of the day.

Vera was really good at spotting the bighorn sheep

The Notch Trail

It’s kind of different worldly.

The badlands…

This is where Chief Big Foot, battling pneumonia, led his tribe and a remaining part of Sitting Bull’s tribe (after he was shot near the standing rock reservation) down through the badlands to find refuge at the Pine Ridge Reservation. Unfortunately, he didn’t make it and resulted in the Wounded Knee Massacre…will share more tomorrow as we head down there 😢
Pretty sure I was attempting to open my eyes through the wind
“Yellow Mounds”
when the black hills formed and the sea drained away, the black ocean mud was exposed to air and turned the soil yellow

The northern part of the badlands are right near Hwy 90 so we ran up to go see the Minuteman Missile and Wall, South Dakota which supposedly has a must see 20,000 sq.ft. drug store with a jackalope and 5 cents coffee.

The Minuteman Missile 09 site houses a 68 ton missile implemented during the Cold War. It had 200 x the power of Hiroshima and Nagasaki combined and could be detonated from anywhere including any plane that had the correct radio frequencies. It could even withstand a direct attack. The door is 90 tons itself. It was put here because South Dakota was considered to have a low enough population so if there was a counterattack there would be low casualties. It is NOT active now.

The antenna

Wall, South Dakota.

The pumpkin ice cream and donuts were actually quite good

Back into the badlands to explore the mud some more and camp.

the Longhorn Saloon in Scenic, SD
Good thing to have next to a saloon
Heading up to Sheep Table Mountain

Day 55. Just for you Tucker. South Dakota Air & Space Museum.

Day 55. 10.21.19. Wind Cave National Park. South Dakota.

Wind Cave National Park…where the prairie meets the hills and trees.

We camped at Elk Mountain Campground inside the park. We were the only ones there.

We actually went on a really nice 5 mile hike to explore the area. Watching Dancing with the Wolves with the girls last night helped me appreciate all the prairie grasses 🙂

Morning bison pic

We took the Centennial Trail to the Highland Creek Trail to the Lookout Trail through prairie grass and ponderosa pine forest and even found another wind cave tunnel.

Prairie meets the hills
the red spearfish rock formations

Prairie dogs DO NOT drink any water. They get all their water from the prairie grasses. Many animals prey upon the prairie dogs in the area, foxes, coyotes, badgers, snakes, birds. Another animal is the black-footed ferret which is the similar size as the prairie dogs. The black-footed ferret is endangered and without the prairie dogs they are in danger of going extinct.

can’t stop won’t stop enjoying the fat noisy prairie dogs
the prairie dogs are apparently too cute to handle

The prairie marches on…

Prairie grasses are adapted to the hot, dry summers and the cold, dry winters. And the CONSTANT wind. They are even tough enough so that when bison eat them down to the ground or they are burned down from prairie fires, they can grow again from its core. The bison till up the soil allowing air and moisture to help the soil around the grasses. The bison also picks up the seeds with its tail and hide and helps distribute grass seeds around the prairie.

The girls made 2 scientific discoveries with their eyeballs.

Tthey were pretty sure a giant bison bedded down here at one point recently … and then woke up and took a poop
Tthe tatanka poop 💩 leads to nutrients … see the new light green grass

Day 54. 10.20.19. Wind Cave National Park. Hot Springs. Mammoth Site. South Dakota.

So we woke up to snow. (it was supposed to be rain starting at 11am)…so quickly packed up and got out of there (so wouldn’t have to put on chains) and went south 30 min.

Made it to our 8th National Park. Wind Cave National Park.

Wind Cave National Park
Edwin is getting good at setting up the auto timer on the RV
the babushka made it too

We went to the visitor center, saw the movie, and checked out the natural entrance to the wind cave. You could really feel and hear the wind rushing out of there.

The air or “wind” goes from high pressure to low pressure to try and equalize the pressure inside and outside the cave. The oncoming storm made it very “low pressure” outside so the “high pressure” inside the cave made the wind flow out of the cave. It was loud. And was really blowing our hair all around. When the relative pressure is high outside cave compared to inside the cave wind rushes into the cave.

Wind Cave is the 7th national Park to be established in 1903 by Teddy Roosevelt and was the first national park to be established because of a cave.Wind Cave got its name because it is a very large cave and has very few openings so you often hear wind rushing in or out of the cave due to the pressure differential.

The cave is closed so we can not check it out. The elevator has been down since July.

here’s our daily requisite bison pic

You could feel the storm moving towards us so we went another 15 minutes south to Hot Springs, South Dakota and check out the local warm water pools there. It was a fun pool with two indoor waterslides, basketball, steam rooms, and gymnastics rings. The coolest thing about this pool was it had actual river rocks as its floor.

happy to see Hungarian made it way to Hot Springs, South Dakota 🙂
loving these indoor water slides
the water felt so clean and the river rocks were a super fun bottom

We took a break from swimming to go to the Mammoth Dig Site in Hot Springs.

The Mammoth Site in Hot Springs South Dakota is an active digging site. It was a large sinkhole where the animals went looking for food and/or water, got trapped, and couldn’t get out. It is the largest site of Columbia’s mammoths. It is also the only site where Columbian mammoths and wooly mammoths have been found together. They have also found the prehistoric short nosed bear, which just looks scary.

yeah, not a scary looking bear…not big at all
Edwin’s hand to the juvenile short nose bear hand
the bones have been preserved and then placed back where they were found
size of a Colombian mammoth
Mammoths have four molars and they grow 6 sets of molars throughout their lifetime

we went back to Evans Plunge for a quick swim before we drove back up to Wind Cave and camped inside the park.

Oh and then we watched Dances with Wolves with the girls. Here’s Vera with tatanka

Day 53. 10.19.19. Custer State Park. South Dakota.

Another day of not moving. We really like Custer State Park, which is located in the Black Hills, Pahá Sápa, in Lakota. It was given the name black hills because they were covered in ponderosa pines and looked “black” from a distance. The ponderosa pine trees and the granite gave it a similar feel as to the Tahoe area.

We basically hung out at camp, went bike riding, fishing (although we are still at zero luck on the fish catching), made rollie pollies (the Wolinski special) and enjoyed a campfire. It was a beautiful clear sunny day and it was nice to just stay put.

it was nice out, but still jacket weather
lunchtime rollie pollies
even at sunset and still no luck 🙁

Day 52. 10.18.19. Mount Rushmore National Memorial. Crazy Horse Memorial. Custer State Park. South Dakota.

We return in the morning to do the audio tour and walk around Mount Rushmore up close. It was nice we were here yesterday evening after everything was closed because there were significantly less people. It’s kind of crazy on a midweek day in October how many people are here. I mean I guess we are, but still….

Can you name the 4 Presidents featured on the Mount Rushmore National Memorial? And guess why they were picked to be a part of this memorial?

Mount Rushmore National Memorial was sculpted by Gutzon Borglum. The idea came from a historian, Doane Robinson, to promote tourism in South Dakota. He originally wanted American West heroes such as Lewis & Clark and Buffalo Bill Cody, but Borglum though Presidents would have wider appeal. He started the project in 1927 and the memorial was finished in October 1941. Unfortunately Borglum died in March 1941 so he was not there to see the the project to completion. His son Lincoln completed the project. Originally it was supposed to display the presidents to their waist, but due to lack of funding and the fact that Gutzon died, it remained the way it is today.

President George Washington. This was an easy pick. He was our 1st president. He was president from 1789-1897. He represented the nation’s ”birth”.

President Abraham Lincoln was also an easy pick. Borglum was a big fan of President Lincoln. He even named his first son after him. Lincoln is our 16th President from 1861-1865. President Lincoln was to represent the “preservation” of our country during the Civil War.

Thomas Jefferson, our 3rd President. He was picked to represent the “growth” of our country. 1801-1809.

Theodore Roosevelt. Our 26th president. 1901-1909. The most controversial figure for the memorial. He was a fairly recent president and there was a bit of controversy as whether not he should have been placed in the memorial. The crux of the scandal was that Teddy Roosevelt was good friends with the sculptor Gutzon Borglum. According to the audio tour, he was picked to represent the “development” of our country.

We left a giant rock memorial that had been completed to go to a rock memorial that was in the beginning stages of its completion, the Crazy Horse Memorial just about 20 miles away also in the Black Hills.

There was a lot of initial controversy over Mount Rushmore. It is located in the Black Hills. (I was recently told anywhere you see ponderosa pines, you are in the black hills). The Black Hills were originally gifted to the Lakota people via the Treaty of Fort Laramie in 1868, but the U.S. took it back in 1876 after they found gold there. The U.S. then deciding to put giant faces of U.S. Presidents was very difficult to the Lakota people for 2 reasons, 1. it was on land “taken away” from them and subsequently heroes of American culture that forced the indigenous people from their land was erected, but even more so 2. the “Black Hills” in particular are considered sacred ground.

This is the part of history that I have never been aware of or cared to seek out before, but grateful for this journey to be able to see beauty in all the ways. There is beauty in seeing this rock sculpture as a work of art. Because I feel like it is…a work of art in itself And what a feat. But there is also beauty (albeit the sad parts of beauty) in the understanding of history, the background, and the controversy.

So we went to the memorial honoring Crazy Horse, a Native American, and guess what, controversy there too. In response to Mount Rushmore a Lakota chief Henry Standing Bear commissioned Korczak Ziolkowski to carve the Crazy Horse monument in 1948. “My fellow chiefs and I would like the white man to know the red man has great heroes, too.” It would feature Crazy Horse on his horse pointing to his lands which are “my lands are where my dead lie buried.” Crazy Horse’s family feels that Standing Bear never had the right to ask Ziolkowski to do this and the monument is a “desecration of the landscape and environment of the Black Hills, and of the ideals of Crazy Horse himself”. In addition, Crazy Horse was very aloof and humble and made a point to never having his picture taken. “…will you imprison my shadow as well?…”.

Crazy Horse is one of the most notable Native Americans of his time. He was never a chief, but was a great warrior of the Lakota and very much respected. He has been credited to the warrior who led the defeat of the 7th cavalry at the Battle of Little Big Horn and along with Sitting Bull took up arms agains the U.S. Army to preserve the traditional way of life of the Lakota people. “…his life shows how great he was, because he remained himself from the moment of his birth to the moment he died; because [though] he may have surrendered, … he was never defeated in battle; because, although he was killed, even the Army admitted he was never captured. His dislike of the oncoming civilization was prophetic. Unlike many people all over the world, when he met white men he was not diminished by the encounter.”

At first the Native Americans were split about the project, but because of the for profit business the Ziolkowski family has made of the monument, the lack of Native Americans working at the site and museum, most feel as though the family is no longer honoring Crazy Horse, but profiting from him. The project started back in 1948 and is very far from completion. The site is owned entirely by the Ziolkowski family, is run as a non-profit, and no money being donated to the local tribes.

Once completed it will be the 2nd largest statue in the world measuring at 563’ high by 643’ wide. Crazy Horse’s fade will he 83’ high. (The heads at Mount Rushmore are 60’ tall). Beyond the controversy it was neat to see it in its initial stage and and I will come back in another 30 years to see where it’s done.

as of now…71 years after start
Korczak Ziolkowski with Standing Bear in 1948
the sculpture bottom left what it is to look like one day

We have more to learn about Crazy Horse and the Native American tribes of this area that is for certain…so forgive me…because we are learning as we are going…and its A LOT of information to take in.

Day 51. 10.17.19. Mount Rushmore National Monument. South Dakota.

We just stopped in for a quick look and sunset and then camping out tonight and will return for the audio tour tomorrow

new deer species, the black tail
thanks for the hip check isabella 🙂
…when your 11yo is as big as you…
Everyone said wait for the lights but I think it looks much cooler during the day.

Day 51. Rapid City. South Dakota.

Yesterday was a lot of fun Vera has a great birthday, we all did. We slept in and enjoyed the hotel room this morning, even Daisy got a shower.

Vera got a much needed bike upgrade for her birthday and we went on our first official mountain bike trail ride as a family. Proud of both the girls, they did switchbacks going up the hill for a ways and came upon dinosaur park at the top of the hill arthur endosperm trails. Edwin and I were contemplating finding a way down via streets to avoid going downhill but the girls were little rockstars and no one went head over tea kettle. Overall it was a great ride and a huge confidence booster for all.

Day 50. 10.16.19. Happy 10th Birthday Vera. We ❤️ U.

the balloon fairy cake and left light balloons during the night night with a

We had fun walking around downtown Rapid City. Memorial Park had a great playground. They had a super neat hand tennis interactive game/arcade game.

this was also an amazing see saw for me and Isabella. Super FUN!

Found this as we walked through “Art Alley”. Passing on the the strength to Julia…she had her last chemo today. We ❤️ U.

Then to to the Japanese Hibachi grill for birthday lunch. “Quote unquote Best Lunch Ever” were her words.

Vera’s onion cake

now off to Watiki Waterslides

10.15.19. My baby is going to be 10 tomorrow. Is it ok to be happy and sad at the same time?!?

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